We started out at 9:30 and reached the top just before lunch time.
On top, we met a family from Munich we had met previously in the
Stahlhouse. The man was
celebrating his 62nd birthday, organized by his daughter. He gave us
each a swig out of his coke laced with cognac. There were crows
around waiting for food
and one of
them even took a piece of cheese out of my hand.
After lunch, we started across the ridgeline unfortunately going
every downwards. I hate losing altitude, but that's how it works in
the mountains. It's not an amusement park - they didn't plan the
mountains for an even tour. You have to go up and down to go
anywhere. It was still foggy and the
trail was occasionally hard to follow, especially since we couldn't
see the surrounding mountains. We joined up with a funny fellow who
didn't know which way to go. He spoke with stutter, looked like a
Silicon Valley nerd, and was a very awkward hiker through the
rocks. (Christine on the other hand was a natural.)
The fog started to lift a bit. Actually, we were descending and
getting below the clouds.
At one
point we had a good view of a Gamnse, a local mountain goat.
The three of us hiked all the way to the Seeleinsee,
a very
small lake (at least now). Thank goodness the odd fellow went on - he
was beginning to get on my nerves after a few hours. We rested at bit
and then went on. Just after we pasted the turnoff to the emergency
house (Bergwachütte), we started to climb again, over big rocks,
going fom 1809 meters to 1949 meters at the turnoff to the hard
deadend climb to the Kahlersberg. At this point we found the welcome
ice again and filled up our empty bottles.
Unfortunately this was just a pass to a long deep valley. We kept
going down. And down. At some
point, I was worrying that we were on the wrong trail. But the sad
truth is that this was a long deep valley that was take us back deep
into the forest just above the Obersee, which is at the south end of
the Königsee.
We came and passed the turnoff to the Gotzenalm, which would have required an immediate
climb. The Wasseralm was not much further and it didn't look like much
of a climb on the map since the relative heights of the huts was not
much different. However, we underestimated how deep in the forest we
would go.
Eventually, we climbed again. This was a
series of steep switchbacks with a sharp dropoff towards the
Obersee. The signs warned us not to step one stone off of the path
because it was lifethreatening. So we climbed quickly from 1240 to
1415 meters where we emerged from the forest
to find a
plain filled with beautiful streams and the Wasseralm.
It was only about 19:30 (another ten hour day) but there were lots
of people already there, mostly having come an easier way from the
Obersee. They teased Christine that it was full and we would have to
go back down. But of course there is always room, even if you have to
sleep on the floor with Thermorests. But after a nice dinner, they
even found proper beds for us in the lager. We didn't have to join the
couple in the honeymoon suite reached by climbing up one corning of
the hut.
That evening and morning, we also got to use their wonderful
bathrooms. There was also a cookhouse
and a little house further
out where the nice people who ran the hut actually lived. Unlike
the other huts, the Wasseralm is associated neither with the
DAV nor the Friends of Nature and is instead privately operated.