Smog test '99

April 24, 1999.


Got my vehicle registration form and saw that I needed a smog test. The car had not been thoroughly tuned up since the last smog, so I decided to get a pre-test at the local smog shop (Quality Tune-up on El Camino, near Sears). No point failing miserably and being labeled a "gross polluter." The only adjustment I made was to retard the timing from 5 deg. BTDC to 0 deg. TDC. The car passed at 2500 rpm, but failed CO at idle. "Sam" at the shop offered to let me adjust the carburetors while it was hooked up to the smog tester and I agreed to come back and give that a try.

Ordered the special Zenith Stromberg Needle Adjustment tool from Delta Motorsports (gee, there's a handy tool I'm going to get a lot of use out of...) and took it in the next Saturday. After reading various email tips I was tempted to try the ethanol-in-the-gas trick, but figured that California formulated gas is so clean that anything I did might make things worse.

At the shop, they hooked me up and I raised the idle speed to just under 1000 rpm (legal range is 975 +/- 25 rpm). This immediately improved emissions to the point where the car almost passed. In fact, if I could have kept the car idling at exactly 1000 rpm, it might have worked, but the idle tended to drift slowly up and down, giving a bit to much CO when it drifted downward and going over the 1000rpm limit when it drifted upward.

I removed the plungers from the carbs and gently tweaked the needles about 1/8 turn anticlockwise (leaner). This was harder than it sounds. First,  the magic Zenith adjustment tool is nothing more than a long Allen wrench in a machined steel sleeve with a little roll pin protruding from the bottom to catch onto a notch inside the carburetor. The pin and notch are to prevent you from tearing the rubber diaphram while adjusting the needle. But you can't see if you've engaged the Allen wrench and the roll pin because they're at the bottom of an oil-filled hole. So you go by feel and hope you don't do any damage. Second, the engine idles badly while the adjustment tool is in place, which sends the emissions readings temporarily way up. Also, the needle is in a rubber seat and has a spongy feel with considerable spring-back. In the end, I can only hope that both carburetors were adjusted the same. Of course, making the carbs leaner also reduces the idle speed a bit. But after resetting the idle, the emissions fell within the acceptable range. There's no way I could have done this without being hooked up to the smog tester all the while.

Emissions results before making adjustments
Values of actual/(allowable) emissions
Number in square brackets [ ] is the "average for passing vehicles in this category."
 
Test condition Speed (rpm) Ignition timing HC (ppm) CO %
High speed 2570   92 / (400)    [123] 3.15 / (4.00)   [1.40]
Idle 971 0 TDC 317 / (550) [147] 6.85 / (5.00)   [1.80]

Emissions after making adjustments
Values of actual/(allowable) emissions after adjusting carbs and idle speed.
 
Test condition Speed (rpm) Ignition timing HC (ppm) CO %
High speed 2440   51 / (400) clean! 1.18 / (4.00)
Idle 1001 0 TDC 241 / (550)  4.02 / (5.00) 

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